Blog Post 9 – How I Fell in Love with Peru - From the Amazon to the Sacred Valley

Arriving in Iquitos, Peru, by Slow Cargo Boat

When I first crossed into Peru, it wasn’t through the busy airport of Lima or the high peaks of the Andes - it was through the quiet, endless green of the Amazon. I entered Peru the slow way: by cargo boat from Colombia, drifting down the river, chilling in my hammock for a couple of days.

It’s the local - and cheapest - way to cross this border. It’s an experience! You buy a hammock, stock up on water and snacks, and then board the boat to find your spot, install your hammock and get settled among local families. There’s no rush, no Wi-Fi, no planned activities. Just the steady hum of the engine, the smell of diesel, simple meals prepared in a kitchen of which the cleanliness is debatable, a very basic toilet… and the slow calming rhythm of the Amazon sliding by.

Every so now and then, the boat stopped at tiny riverside villages to load or unload cattle, crates of Coca-Cola, and passengers. I watched it all unfold for hours, days - life on the river, very raw and real. Between it all, I’d watch the pink and grey river dolphins play and golden mornings fade into pink and purple evenings. It wasn’t luxurious, not even close, but somehow I didn’t want it to end. This tranquility, far away from the western rat race and always being online.

A glimpse into my journey traveling by slow boat from Leticia to Iquitos - through the heart of the Amazon.

Bedtime Stories from Paracas

After days drifting through the jungle, Lima hit me like a wave of noise and movement. The city felt heavy, and so did my head. I had such a big heavy headache! At first, I blamed it on the chaos — the traffic, maybe even the sudden change of climate. Then came the chills. I wrapped myself in layers, complaining about how cold Peru was. Later that night I woke up, my entire body being so sore, and I told myself it was just a bad hostel mattress.

I was stubborn and decided the city was simply the wrong place to be for me. So I packed my bag and escaped to Paracas — a small coastal town I hoped would be warmer and calmer.

However, instead of sandy walks and sunset views, I found myself bed-bound. Turned out the chills were caused by a fever, my energy vanished, and every ray of light was too much to bear. So was standing or sitting up straight. That’s when I learned I had Dengue.

For a week, I barely moved - surviving on a bit of water, electrolytes and a little bit of chicken and rice the hostel manager made for me. Luckily the couple that ran the hostel checked in upon me often. It was one of the hardest pauses I’ve had on the road — Peru really made me slow down and listen to my body.

The Oasis in the Desert

After a week in bed with Dengue, I was desperate to move - anywhere. Paracas had been beautiful in theory and based upon the photos of fellow travellers staying in my hostel, but all I’d seen were the walls of my room.  They were starting to come at me.

So when I finally felt strong enough, I packed up and left for Huacachina - the famous desert oasis of Peru. I didn’t have much energy, but I didn’t need it there.  I could walk short distances without my world turning into stars and darkness from fainting, which was already an achievement. Huacachina is very small, so was perfect for short walks.

I spent a few quiet days by the hostel pool, soaking up the sun, letting my body slowly recover, regaining some energy and trying to eat well. When I finally joined one of the desert tours, I loved it, racing through the golden dunes as the sun melted into the horizon. I didn’t sandboard, but the thrill of gliding through this cinematic landscape in one of those cool dune buggies was unforgettable!

Huacachina looks like something straight out of a Hollywood movie - small stunning and almost perfect. It’s a tourist town now. It’s the kind of stop where a couple of days are enough to experience the magic before moving on.

I skipped the Nazka lines this time; my body wasn’t ready for another adventure just yet. For others it’s worth considering as part of the route. Ica is also the wine region of Peru, but I didn’t have the energy to visit the local wineries. Wine wasn’t on my list after recovering - not yet.

Arequipa and the Colca Canyon That Changed Everything

Next came Arequipa, known as the White City for its elegant colonial buildings made of volcanic stone. Located high in the Andes (about 2,300 meters above sea level), it was a lot colder than before — a refreshing contrast to the desert and jungle I was before. I had to go shopping to buy myself warmer clothes. I wandered through the cobbled streets, visited a monastery that felt frozen in time, and met the famous alpacas at a local weaving museum.

But it was the journey beyond the city — the Colca Canyon — that made me truly fall in love with Peru. My new friends - I met in Arequipa - and me set off on a three-day trek through deep valleys and small mountain villages and watching condors circle above us. It was green and alive, as it was the end of rainy season. We got blessed with lots of sun and the rainstorms only came once we reached our accommodation for the night.

The simplicity of life there touched me: locals using donkeys and horses to carry goods between villages, people always kindly greeting us and cheap but delicious local meals at tiny restaurants along the way. Because it was low season, we didn’t need to book ahead. During high-season it is recommended to secure your accommodation.

Somewhere between the canyon walls, breathing in the fresh mountain air and looking at the mos incredible views, I realised: this was the Peru everyone talked about. The Peru that impressed me.

Cusco and the Sacred Valley

After the canyon, I continued to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Empire. It’s a city layered with history — cobblestone streets, vibrant markets, and a mix of Spanish and indigenous influences that gives it a special energy.

I joined a free walking tour, which was a great choice to get a better understanding of the city and its rich history and tried local dishes like cuy (guinea pig). During Carnaval, the whole city turned crazy! There was one big water & foam fight on the streets and plazas, laughter everywhere. Young and old throwing waterballons, people shooting water canons out of cars. It was hectic, intens but also an amazing cultural experience to take part of. At the end of the day I even danced around a Yunza tree, which they slowly cut down one-by-one, until it falls down and people run to grab the presents that hung in the tree. I loved how arm and welcoming the Peruvians were, just spontaneously dragging me into their social bubble to partake.

Then my friends convinced me it was a good idea to do the Salkantay Trek — five days of hiking through jungle, 5000 M high mountains, and cloud forests, leading to Machu Picchu. It was one of the most breathtaking adventures I’ve ever done, maybe the most beautiful hike of my life. Reaching the top and seeing the ruins in the early morning mist felt surreal — like a dream you don’t want to end. We got every lucky with the weather, as we had sun and it only rained when we were having lunch or at our accommodation already. The week after the government closed the trail due to major landslides making it too dangerous.

After Cusco, I went to spend some days in Pisac, the Sacred Valley. What was supposed to be 2 days turned into a month. I visited local ruins, waterfalls, got introduced to the indigenous culture of Peru - the connection to Pachamama - and learned the basics of jewellery making with silver and bronze. As we all know, this is also exactly where I am living now.

The Islands of Lake Titicaca

From the mountains, I headed south to Puno and Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. I visited the floating Uros Islands, built entirely from reeds, and Taquile Island, a UNESCO-recognized community where traditions are deeply rooted into daily life. For example, people wear hats and belts that tell their story - whether they’re single, married, young, or old. Men wear wedding belts woven from their wife’s hair. It was so cool to learn about these other cultures and their traditions. Tours are a bit touristy, however very interesting for culture-nerds like me.

From just a Journey to Finding a New Home

Peru surprised me in every possible way — its landscapes, its cultural warmth, its diversity. I arrived without a plan - or well, the idea was to just travel through for 3 weeks - and left with an unexpected deep connection to this country. What started as a journey through places slowly turned into something more personal — a relationship with the land, the people, and the culture that welcomed me.

Now, I call Pisac my home. It’s a small creative town in the Sacred Valley, surrounded by mountains and artists. Here, I paint, write, and share stories from the road — and offer my help to others who want to travel to these incredible places, and other countries I have visited and lived in this world.

Also want to explore this diverse country? Reach out to me if you’d like me to personalise a trip for you with local insight and connections. I promise you, it will be an adventure of a lifetime!

With warmth,
Kimberly 🌻